As the end of the 1970’s neared, climbers, more and more, the world over, were wondering the same thing. “How hard can we climb?

In this setup episode we look at the factors that coalesced right there at the end of the 70's and beginning of the 80's to help pave the way for what we now call sport climbing.

New equipment, new tactics, and most important, ushered in by a German giant named Kurt Albert, were new rules.

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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.

This episode is supported by Tension Climbing.

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

Climbing, in the 1990’s, as you’ve already heard, was all punk rock and new wave, rising standards and superstar climbers pushing each other forward through friendly – and not so friendly – rivalries. And it was huge.

But all of that bravado started somewhere. It wasn’t some Big Bang event. Instead, January 1st, 1990 was a product of the previous decade. A continuation of the countercultural need to rail against the conservatism, materialism and, well, traditionalism of the cultural norm. What had been counterculture in the 60s and 70s had become, in fact, climbing culture, and there was a new class of climbers unwilling to be subservient to what came before. They wanted something entirely new. Entirely theirs. Something that bucked against the tired old ways their fathers and mothers and grandparents had climbed.

They were louder. They were stronger. They were better. By miles. And they knew it.

Season 2, The 1980's, coming soon.

Remus Knowles runs https://climbing-history.org/ , and since he's a fan of the show, I asked him to come on and tell me which climbers and ascents we missed in Season 1. He showed up with a great list of climbers including Leo Houlding, Klem Loskot and more. I do my best to defend my choices, but Remus makes some great points.

Become a Patron and get this full episode for free at: https://www.patreon.com/secretstonersclub

Links to things we discuss:

Steve McClure and Mutation: https://climbing-history.org/climb/392/mutation

Klem Loskot profile and videos: https://climbing-history.org/climber/941/klem-loskot

Beat Kammerlander free soloing Mordillo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iyaCK-xf10&t=2s

Alain Robert's Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/alainrobertofficial

The Alpine Trilogy: https://climbing-history.org/list/11/the-alpine-trilogy

Jam Crack Podcast with Leo Houlding Part 1: https://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2023/12/5/jcpc-142-leo-houlding-part-1

Jam Crack Podcast with Leo Houlding Part 2: https://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2023/12/5/jcpc-142-leo-houlding-part-2