This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, the luteal phase, with higher progesterone levels, may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding these phases can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of their performance fluctuations. Coaches and partners can also consider these factors when working with female climbers. Takeaways The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. The luteal phase may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding the menstrual cycle can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of performance fluctuations.

Katrina Wong's Bio Currently, Katrina is a resident in orthopedics at Kaiser, where she is dedicated to expanding her knowledge and honing her skills. Katrina is slowly building her foundation and working to make positive contributions to both the climbing and physical therapy communities.

Chapters

• 00:00 Introduction
• 02:12 Understanding the Menstrual Cycle
• 04:16 Awareness of Menstrual Cycle Phases
• 06:07 Hormones and their Roles
• 08:46 Training in the Follicular Phase
• 12:09 Effects of the Menstrual Cycle
• 19:17 Positive Aspects of the Luteal Phase
• 23:17 Training Recommendations for Different Phases
• 25:47 Considerations for Coaches and Partners
• 26:33 Personal Variability in Cycle Phases
• 28:35 Final Thoughts

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches

In this conversation, Stacey Castaldo shares her personal experience with concussion and discusses the signs, symptoms, and rehabilitation of concussions in rock climbing. She emphasizes the importance of seeking medical attention and getting screened after a head injury. Stacey also highlights the structured return to climbing protocol and the role of physical therapy exercises in concussion recovery. The key takeaways include wearing a helmet, resting for no more than 48 hours, and seeking professional guidance for rehabilitation. Takeaways Wear a helmet while climbing to reduce the risk of head injuries. Seek medical attention and get screened after a head injury to rule out serious complications. Rest for no more than 48 hours after a concussion, as prolonged rest may slow down recovery. Follow a structured return to climbing protocol, gradually increasing intensity and monitoring symptoms. Engage in aerobic exercise as part of concussion recovery, as it has been shown to be beneficial. Consult with a physical therapist for guidance and exercises to aid in concussion rehabilitation.

Chapters

• 00:00 Introduction and Background
• 01:14 Stacey's Personal Experience with Concussion
• 03:00 Signs and Symptoms of Concussion
• 08:00 Seeking Medical Attention and Diagnosis
• 11:00 Rehabilitation and Return to Climbing
• 24:00 Structured Return to Climbing Protocol
• 32:00 Physical Therapy Exercises for Concussion Recovery
• 38:00 Key Takeaways and Recommendations

Stacey's Bio

Stacey received her doctorate in physical therapy from California State University in Long Beach. Originally from Palos Verdes, she is a Southern California native and a lifetime athlete. A former competitive gymnast, varsity long distance runner, and avid snowboarder; she found rock climbing 4 years ago and has fallen in love with the sport. She was a member of the Climbing Special Interest Group while in PT school, where she gained valuable experience in learning to treat climbing specific injuries and wrote an article on returning to climbing after concussion after sustaining a concussion herself and struggling to get back on the wall. She currently works in the Orthopedic and Sports setting and has also worked as a Strength and Conditioning coach, and uses her fitness background to help athletes of all ages and levels stay active and doing what they love.

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches

In this episode, we invite Evan Ingerson back o the show to discuss the topic of tendons and tendon injuries, with a focus on climbers. He explains the structure and function of tendons, the different types of tendon injuries, and the causes and symptoms of these injuries. He also discusses the differences between tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy, and provides guidelines for their treatment and rehabilitation. He emphasizes the importance of rest and proper loading techniques in the healing process and provides insights into the expected healing time for tendon injuries. Overall, this conversation provides valuable information and advice for climbers dealing with tendon injuries.

Takeaways

• Tendons are the connective tissue that connects muscles to bone and play a crucial role in movement.
• Tendon injuries are common in climbers, with the most common areas being the elbow, rotator cuff, biceps, and hamstring.
• Tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy are different types of tendon injuries, each requiring a different approach to treatment and rehabilitation.
• Rest and proper loading techniques are essential for the healing of tendon injuries, and the progression of rehabilitation should be guided by the individual's symptoms and response to treatment.

Evan Ingerson’s Bio

Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor’s Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he’s not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at evan@mendcolorado.com for inquiries.

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches