Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of the first 5.12s in Yosemite, access issues threatening Aralipes climbing, putting cultural heritage into context, and how climbers can help save Arapiles climbing.

How You Can Help:

https://www.climbingvictoria.com/arapiles

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-shepherd

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:26) – Fahrenheit

(00:03:09) – Australian bolting system

(00:05:49) – Louise’s intro to climbing in 1978

(00:16:46) – Dealing with health issues

(00:18:36) – Formative experiences

(00:24:34) – Flying breasts & Kim Carrigan

(00:29:34) – Yosemite & yoyo style

(00:36:16) – Living in Arapiles

(00:49:09) – Guiding & The Millennium Draught

(00:58:35) – Cultural heritage & closures in Arapiles

(01:20:00) – How we can help

(01:27:29) – Endangered species & preservation

(01:34:15) – Potential outcomes & complexities

(01:41:53) – Recap & wrap up

Sol Wertkin is a former rock climber, cancer survivor, nurse, and avid mountain biker. We talked about new routing in the PNW, the “Golden Era” of Leavenworth climbing, the passing of Johnny Goicoechea, Sol’s cancer diagnosis in 2020, the long and difficult road to recovery, how e-biking saved his life, sailing, why life feels richer now that he doesn’t climb, and nuggets to help your own health journey.

Feel free to message Sol on Instagram if you have any questions about cancer diagnosis or long covid.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne

Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sol-wertkin

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:00:57) – How I met Sol

(00:03:56) – Depression & climbing roots

(00:09:02) – New routing in the PNW

(00:12:02) – The “Golden Era” in Leavenworth

(00:23:37) – Johnny Goicoechea

(00:28:37) – Training & sport climbing

(00:31:27) – Smith Rock & Spain

(00:35:40) – Getting diagnosed with cancer

(00:49:07) – Lifetimes, surgery 1, & do the things

(00:54:43) – Short of breath

(00:59:12) – Systematic diaphragm paralysis, & surgery 2

(01:03:33) – E-bikes

(01:10:20) – Diaphragm plication

(01:21:54) – Chylothorax

(01:25:15) – The early stages of dying

(01:28:39) – Surgery 3

(01:32:31) – Planning for the worst, & getting discharged

(01:36:40) – Bonus life

(01:41:55) – A final hurdle

(01:52:32) – Every day is a gift

(01:54:14) – Sailing

(02:01:06) – Replacing climbing

(02:08:48) – Goals

(02:13:59) – E-biking & ableism

(02:19:07) – Why Sol doesn’t climb anymore

(02:22:33) – A richer life after climbing

(02:29:58) – Trail clearing & volunteering

(02:34:38) – What’s next

(02:37:44) – Healthcare & nursing

(02:40:46) – Sol’s nuggets

(03:06:19) – Let’s go!